50 pleas for a ride, population 2121, Balmorhea and 60% humidity

D. Judd Marfa, TX

D. Judd Marfa, TX

I made the long trip to El Paso in the hope that I would be able to hitch a ride on the interstate 10 to Van Horn (my connecting point to Marfa). I pedaled about 20 mile on the frontage road all the way to the outskirts of the city, constantly asking for a ride at each gas station I passed. The ride from El Paso to Van Horn is about 110 miles on the interstate and was not something that I looked forward to. I asked at truck stops, gas stations and even got desperate enough to hitch on the last on ramp going out of town. No luck! I accepted my situation, and realized that I needed to pedal over 30 miles in the dark to get back to downtown.

 

El Paso, scenes for downtown. Actually a really cool city

El Paso, scenes for downtown. Actually a really cool city

 

The next day I boarded a greyhound bus. I had 20 minutes to break down my bike and get it to fit inside of a box made for a kids bike! I barely made it on the bus, and spent 3 cold hours sitting in 4th of July traffic. I was shaken awake at the immigration check point and was confronted with 3 officers and a team of drug dogs searching the cabin and luggage bin. We were at the Sierra Blanca check point, which caught both Willy Nelson and Snoop dog in the same year! Each were carrying over a pound of reefer and the officers were hoping to find something on the bus.

R.I.P Playboys attempt a creating a mural in Marfa Texas is met with dislike

R.I.P Playboys attempt a creating a mural in Marfa Texas is met with dislike

Marfa Texas was a great place to spend the 4th! After arriving I took a outdoor bath  under a mulberry tree, and enjoy the company of about half the town at the bbq. Artists, dancers, and film makers make up most of the town, which started booming when Boston artist Donald Judd moved to the town in the 1970’s. I stayed for 3 days in which time I toured the local museums, schmoosed with artists and photographers at openings, mixed Thai basil cocktails and ate a grill cheese sandwiches in a school bus.

Cement boxes D. Judd

Cement boxes
D. Judd

Chinati foundation, Marfa, TX

Chinati foundation, Marfa, TX

I took a slight detour a rode to the top of the McDonald observatory, there I met with an cyclist turned mad scientist and toured the telescopes at the top of the mountain. From McDonald I pedaled to the refreshing waters of Balmorhea, where I camped with a van full of Koreans and Europeans. After 4 hours of Beatles, Tom Petty and Bob Dylan guitar covers I slept under the stars in the warm summer evening.

Telescope control panel McDonald observatory

Telescope control panel
McDonald observatory

Sunset from the telescope cat walk

Sunset from the telescope cat walk

Balmorhea springs

Balmorhea springs

Austin, TX! What a city! The first thing on my agenda was to determine if “everyone from Austin is cool”, obviously a statement like this can never be true but it actually took me a little time to prove it false. I swam with friends in the humid afternoon at Barton Springs, and enjoyed the cool evenings in downtown.

Local BBQ fare and friendship in the making

Local BBQ fare and friendship in the making

The heat was difficult in the west, now its the humidity! Cycling out here feels like you are pedaling in a Jacuzzi! These are the proper conditions to remove meat from bones. I have asked several people in vehicles for directions and they barely crack their window to speak to me, rolling it up and closing it between sentences!

I think I have developed a bit of the local accent, but I have lost the straw hat

I think I have developed a bit of the local accent, but I have lost the straw hat

I will be in New Orleans on Friday, but it is going to be a hard week of pedaling. Roads out here a very busy and rarely have a bike lane. Welcome to the swamps! Sorry for the delay and will write again when I get to Louisiana!

-Julian

Clouds of smoke, a 70th birthday party and a riding companion

Well the weekend came and went and as I write this Gaby is patiently waiting in the shade for me to begin the journey. Today will be one of the hardest days, saying good bye to my dear mother has already taxed my emotions let alone my sleepless night. It will be a familiar 70 mile ride to the town of Borrego Springs where I hope to find a comfortable place to rest my head. Temperatures east of here are already in the triple digits I guess summer has already begun.

Gaby waiting for the long road ahead

Gaby waiting for the long road ahead

Saturday was Dharma Dan’s 70th birthday party, in Idylwild, CA. Dan has been a friend to my father since the early 1970’s when they met in Kathmandu. Dan and his friend Leroy Miracle gave my father a place to stay in Idylwild when he first came to America. When seeing Leroy again at the party he gave me a huge hug and had a very memorable story to tell me about my father.

In 1973 Leroy had just returned to America after being a “Coder” in the Vietnam war. He was experimenting with drugs and spirituality and decided to make a trip to the Stupa in Boudha Kathmandu. While staying in Boudha he befriended the infamous “mad monk” Tenzin. Tenzin was an American draft dodger who first fled to Canada followed by Nepal to avoid the war. While in Nepal Tenzin was introduced to Buddhism and became the wandering, adventurous, and many times crazy “mad monk”. Tenzin approached Leroy one day and said ” a good friend of mine really wants to try L.S.D”, Leroy had obviously had some bad experiences with Tenzin while using the drug and quickly told Tenzin that “He didn’t want to be anywhere near him or any of his acquaintances while they were using the drug”. Tenzin told Leroy that his friend (my father) was different and that he should come and meet him before deciding against it.

My father and "Mad Monk"

My father and “Mad Monk”

It was the day of the Luna eclipse and all of Boudha was getting ready for a big ceremony. In Nepal, at the time, it is was thought that a dragon was swallowing the moon and that the dragon must be scared off with loud music and noise to keep the moon from being devoured.

Leroy went with Tenzin to a local lassi shop where he was to meet my father. Upon arrival Leroy glanced in the shop to see my father in his Buddhist robe sitting perfectly straight in lotus, slowly sipping his lassi with a spoon. Leroy described him as “totally present and mindful of each sip form the lassi”. Before meeting him Leroy had already made up his mind that there was something special about my father and decided that he would enjoy a good experience with my father on LSD.

Later that evening while on the drug Leroy was on the balcony over looking the Stupa. The moon was slowing being swallowed by the dragon all on Bouda was shouting and banging on pots and pans trying to scare it away. Leroy had lost my father hours ago and figured that he had retreated to some calm environment to surpass the effects of the drug. Then in the midst of commotion, Leroy saw my father circumambulating the Stupa. Around the Stupa in Boudha there are 108 deity’s in cased in small shrines, each shrine having a small candle and a censer. Leroy watched as my father, not distracted by the ceremony, walked by each shrine, relighting the candle and saying a small prayer.

Mindful in nature

My father mindful in nature Circa 1973

I am leaving now, it is already 12pm and I hope that I can make the 70 mile ride before it gets dark. A friend of mine has made me a travel companion that fits in my saddle bag. His name is “misquit” and he is fluent in many languages and loves “Annies Mac and Cheese”.

"Misquit" like bisquit

“Misquit” like bisquit

Here is my last photo in Murrieta, will write again when I get to Brawley

Julian Wong 6/17 outside of the casita I built for my mom

Julian Wong 6/17 outside of the casita I built for my mom