Today I depart from Bangar, Brunei and pedal to the Malaysia border. By nightfall I should be well into the country and near the capital city of Lawas, Sarawak. I will make my way toward Kota Kinabalu the capital city of Sabah where I hope to spend a few days exploring the 13,000 ft. mountain overlooking the coast. From Malaysia I will cross into Kalimantan Indonesia in hope of finding a boat that will take me to Sulawesi.
Kayaking the Singai Temburong river
Hanging out with the local ladies of the jungle
Scenes from Temburong rainforest, Brunei
The Borneo jungle is unlike anything I have encountered. It grows and takes over anything in it past, street signs, parking lots and vacant houses. Anything left unattended for too long will become part of the jungle again. Ants, Mosquitos, gnats, and flies will seek you out regardless of location and feast like an open buffet. All night I hear the familiar buzzing sound around my tent.
The weather is so humid that it is impossible for anything to completely dry and so warm that I only feel cool at night or under the vent of an air conditioner. It was two days to the Temburong rainforest, and during my quick stay I met a few members of the Iban (head hunter tribe) and was invited to an engagement party. Rice wine, whisky, and chicken cooked in freshly cut bamboo. followed by sweet sugary breads. My desire for intoxicants quickly overwhelmed my body and after a few hours I forcefully pedaled a speedy 20 km to catch the last boat back to Bandar Seri Begawan, where I met my NGO friends today to dive.
Today after diving with my NGO friends
Crossing chest deep river to find a local jungle trail
Knives of the Iban (headhunters) tribe in the Temburong rainforest.
Assortment of refreshing beverages available at the local market. I tried the purple one which was taro mixed with coconut.
Cooking chicken in bamboo is a local tradition, especially at the engagement party.
Filling the bamboo with marinated chicken
Battered and deep-fried bananas another local specialty
Roadside fresh oysters
Gaby rides first class on the speed boat back to Bandar Seri Begawan
We spent the day diving; planting and measuring coral off the coast. Many areas were damaged by the recent El Nino where water temperatures reached a soaring 34 C. I am now enjoying a BBQ birthday party western style with Tequila, Cerveza’s and hickory smoked Catfish. Tomorrow I will venture back into the jungle and plan to kayak the main river Sungai Temburong to its source and camp for a few days.
Sungai Temburong
I am leaving. Today I will load up Gaby, and pedal into the Malaysian jungle. The city of Bandar Seri Begawan is a tease, with small patches of rainforest surrounded by littered neighborhoods. It is quiet here when you least expect it, after 8 pm shopping malls and restaurants become completely deserted, making the only sign of life the booming midnight call to prayer. The shape of Brunei is quite odd in that to get to Temburong rainforest in Brunei I must first pedal through 100 km of dense jungle in Sarawak Malaysia. The map makes it look pretty remote and I am not sure what to expect after passing through the border. You are all in my thoughts and as always, I will touch base again soon!
Above: Proposed route from Bandar Seri Begawan to Temburong rainforest.
Last trip with Baba 