New Orleans, Baton Rouge and a pair of swollen ankles

SANYO DIGITAL CAMERA

Dressed in my local Louisiana attire, the dead shirt caused a bit of a commotion as the night wore on

The trip to New Orleans was rather interesting. To avoid the interstate, I rented a Mazda 3 sports car to carry my me safely through Baton Rouge and into the city on a Friday night. Gaby barely fit in the back seat, and even though I am a specialist at fitting bikes into Mazda 3’s (old girl friend used to have one) Gaby just didn’t want to get into the back seat. Lots of repositioning the seats and getting grease on the interior, with a final push I got her to fit with the front wheel taken off. What a fun trip, bicycles, buses, moving vans and now rental cars! The lady at the rental office told me the local Cajun creole music station 101.1 I blasted the radio and I was off for New Orleans. My first encounter other than the small size of the driver’s seat was a 30 mile bridge that travels over swamps and marshes leading into Baton Rouge. There are gas stations and small towns that were essentially built-in the air above the marsh to accommodate the traffic.

French Quarter

French Quarter

New Orleans was a hoot! Public drinking and live music flooded the streets as I approached the town from the west side. What a distraction from the solitude of the road! A friend of mine flew in from San Fran, and we spent the weekend in the city. I found the French quarter a bit touristy for my taste, but was able to escape to the more local venues of Frenchman street. Walking throughout the quarter, I enjoyed the local fare from Po boys to Cajun catfish, and had plenty canned beers.

Mississippi!

Mississippi!

Bourbon street was surprisingly a lot like Halloween in Santa Barbara. SB really is the Mardi Gras of the west. The Mississippi is beautiful and I can finally say that I am on the East coast. I watched boats for more than an hour travel up and down the river and listened to live bands play on cruise liners in the sunset. My impression of the French Quarter was that it consists of about 80% tourists, 5% homeless and 15% locals(all the employees). The near by Frenchman street offers a great mix of local culture and great music, where Cajun bands can be found playing across the street from the local jazz venue. The city becomes a rather familiar town after a few drinks and a walk around the block, and it is nice to stumble back to a hotel room rather than pitching the tent for the night. The French Quarter itself is rather small and is only about ten square blocks.

SANYO DIGITAL CAMERA

After a blur of a weekend I said goodbye to my friend Alexis and sipped a beer on the banks of the Mississippi. I picked up my bicycle from storage and had an hour long conversation about Islam with a security guard. It is currently Ramadan and my friend Carlos told me about what his practice means to him. Born in Panama city, and raised Catholic he told me that he never had the opportunity to contemplate other religions. I told him about my experiences visiting the mosques of North Western China, and crawling into a holy Muslim cave in Kashgar. We shared very similar views regarding spirituality and I hope to have the opportunity to connect with him in the Middle east.

After retaining water for a few days in Louisiana my ankles are back to normal and I am ready for the road again. I blame the two cans of cold Campbell’s soup in my tent the night I camped outside of the church. Either way I was a bit stiff for a while and felt a few pounds heavier, after some rest, electrolytes and a lot of peeing my feet feel nimble again.

I cycled out-of-town and am now writing from the India Hostel on Canal street. The party rages on over here, and I can honestly say that I am one of the only Americans staying here this evening. French, German, and English accents echo through the courtyard and I prepare myself for a bunk bed near an air conditioner, oh boy. Tomorrow, after a gourmet bisquick pancake breakfast I will pedal to the state of Mississippi. Good night friends!

 

Dragon fly in the Louisiana sunset

Dragon fly in the Louisiana sunset

Two hard days of riding to Louisiana. Leaving Conroe, TX I hitched a 30 mile ride on the interstate with a moving truck. The hold was empty except for 3 passengers who were found found lounging on rugs drinking beer and smoking. I lifted my bike to the hold and joined them in their celebration. These guys had just finished moving furniture from Conroe to Seattle and could now rest for a few days in their home state.  I pedaled 75 miles from Cleveland to Beaumont. East Texas is a whole different country. Culture, climate and landscape, welcome to the swamp, and say hello to your friendly African-American neighbors. Except for the police force the whole city of Beaumont and Port Arthur were black, and super friendly. As smelly and as homeless as I look, women in grocery stores asked me about what I am cooking for dinner, tough looking guys in lowered cars blasting music stopped and ask me about where I am from.

Pedaling through swampland, east Texas

Pedaling through swampland, east Texas

In Beaumont I slept in the park next to the police station and was devoured by mosquitos every time I left my tent. Mosquitos are so localized in the grassy areas out here that I ate a can of cold beans in my tent to escape the wrath. For the second night in a row, it poured all night, I slept in bouts in a 80 degree steam bath under the tent fly.

Welcome, the Gulf of Mexico

The Gulf of Mexico

High hopes! I will be officially out of Texas today! All I have to do is ride to the coast, and take the side roads to Louisiana. Easier said then done. I rode 30 miles on the interstate with a constant Mantra about cars abd trucks ” That was close, its ok, keep pedaling, you are almost there”. I struggled at times to keep my bike going in a straight direction,and was thankful when I got to Port Arthur. When asking for directions I made the mistake of saying that I was going to “Louisiana”. “Oh you’re going to Louisiana, I have been there, this is what roads I take to get there” local after local told me. After crossing the suicidal “rainbow bridge” I pedaled 15 miles in the direction of the interstate. “FuCK”!!! “You have to turn around and ride that brige back out of town”!!

The rainbow bridge, the return side did not have a shoulder

The rainbow bridge, the return side did not have a shoulder

At the apex

At the apex shoulder not bad on way into Bridge city

After cycling back over the “rainbow bridge” I got back on the correct road and headed south out of Port Arthur. During my first 30 miles of Louisiana I encountered a 40 mph head wind and constant showers. I passed through Holy Beach which was leveled by hurricane Rita, and boarded the ferry to the city of Cameron, LA.

Before the storm, riding the ferry into Cameron

Before the storm, riding the ferry into Cameron

Levee and an old bridge

Levee and an old bridge

After perusing dollar general and buying a 2 dollar snickers ice cream bar I pitched my tent behind the local church. Rain soaked the rest of my dry clothes and I slept like a spider between the pools of water in my tent.

Gator season, I saw at least twice this amount dead on the side of the roads out here

Gator season, I saw at least twice this amount dead on the side of the roads, these are killed ofr their tails and hide.

92% percent humidity! Once sweating your clothes don’t dry. When you get off your bike to ask for water people think that you fell into a pool! I am sweating so much that my saddle and handle bar tape are bleeding into my clothes and it looks like I poo’ed in my pants!

Casting a big line, waiting for some blackened catfish

Casting a big line, waiting for cajun cooked  catfish

 I am in Pecan Island, LA! The whole area is surrounded by swamps and marshes. Several years ago some of the locals broke a levee so that their houses would have an ocean front. I am heading New Orleans tomorrow, a few days in the French Quarter, and a stroll on Bourbon street will be my last resting point before heading off to Norway.

40 mile head winds it took me an hour and a half to cycle ten miles

40 mile head winds it took me an hour and a half to cycle eight  miles