Last trip with Baba

A 20,000 km bicycle tour returning my fathers ashes to China

Riga, Balta Nakts, the Dalai Lama and a Latvian Staph infection

Posted on September 13, 2013 by bodhitree

Route: Parnu – Reiu – Kabil LKA – Riga(Latvia)

Bridge lights during the "Balta Nakts" Riga, Latvia.

Bridge lights during the “Balta Nakts” festival Riga, Latvia.

Parnu, was a low-key version of Tallinn. Less tourists, smaller churches, and warm sunny beaches. I pedaled around town for a few hours enjoying the sights and looking for a place to camp. I got word from some Estonians working at a kebab house that there were empty beaches south of the city in the village of Reiu. I hit the grocery store, and packed my panniers with zucchini, garlic, a red onion, bell pepper, a bar of crunchy chocolate and some tomato paste. With all this packed and all my water bottles full, I headed on the side roads to the village. Most houses were empty, as this is a very popular summer destination. A hiking trail led me through, thick, tick infested bushes but emptied me into the sea. It took me about 15-20 minutes to get all the ticks off of my panniers,(there weren’t that many but I diligently scoured my bags for them). I then pitched my tent on the sands of a western facing beach on a calm clear evening. Not a soul was out, and I could have easily been a castaway on some deserted island. With no tent fly, I watched the stars and listened to the sea, waiting for it to finally get dark. A sunset over the ocean really reminds me of home, and this is the first time I have seen it since leaving California.

Sunset over the Baltic sea

With a whole beach to myself I bathed and dried in the morning sun. Watching the water-color change from grey to blue. It dawned on me that I could have spent the next few days there, but since I needed drinking water I decided to pack up and find another spot. Just a few km south of Reiu the beaches turned into swamps and the tall grass gave way to yellowing ferns. I picked up supplies in an old soviet building turned grocery store, and found another superb camping spot at an abandoned parks office. Once again I found a secluded place on the beach behind some tall reeds, and set my tent for the night. Two Polish cyclists were camping not far and we drank beers as sunset just km from the Latvian border.

Desolate Estonian beaches

In elementary school my siblings and I would sometimes go to “day care”, the only thing that I remember enjoying was watching Swiss Family Robinson and imagining being stranded on a deserted island

Abandoned Soviet base turned grocery store

A long day of riding brought me to the Latvian capital Riga, about 300 km south of where I departed the ferry in Tallinn. That night I became sick with a fever and diarrhea which left me immobile for two days. In that time I got so used to loose bowels that I was shocked when things returned to normal!

Characters exist on every road, US or international

This didn't even look appetizing, ate only as a sign of friendship

Outside of Riga, I made the mistake of eating this smoked fish when it was offered to me. Three hours later, I was struck with a high fever and diarrhea.

On Saturday I was strong enough to ride again and coincidentally it was “Balta Nakts” a huge cultural festival in downtown Riga. I spent the evening cruising town with my friend Marika. Art installments, light shows, electronic music, psychedelic bands, and cotton candy. I toasted off the evening at a local, soon to be deceased, house bar and made new friends in the wee hours of the morning.

Carlos, Etnea, Marika, Innese. Canyape cultural center, Riga

Carlos, Etnea, Marika, Innese. KANEPE cultural center, Riga

Freedom tower, Old town Riga

Gothic electro in an old Catholic church

The next morning, I got on the subject of spirituality and learned that the Dalai Lama was coming to Riga and giving a teaching on Compassion. In preparation several Tibetan monks were making a sand Mandala, which was open to the public throughout the day. Tickets were only a few Lats, and the teaching was in English!

Tibetan lamas at work on the sand Mandala

Last sunset in Riga

In the last few days I have acquired a rather large staph boil on my right elbow. According to my doctor support in the states I need to stay put for a few days to see if I can reduce the size of this thing by 75%. My right is pretty swollen and feels like it is full of pudding! The skin shakes, and slaps a bit when I brush my teeth, and it looks a bit like I have two elbows on one arm. Here is a photo

This thing hurts! Showed up one day and continued to grow

My second elbow

A few days later after a few more emails and pictures the seriousness of my situation became apparent, and I began to looking for a doctor and antibiotics. After stopping at a few clinics and pharmacies I realized that I would have to wait all day at the hospital where a doctor could cut open the infection, drain the pus and prescribe me the meds.

Later that night I had a dinner party with some of my Latvian friends. When I arrived I meet a man named Rivas who seemed concerned about my arm, and looked thoroughly at it. Rivas had just finished medical school and was preparing to become a psychiatrist. We talked for a few minutes, and then he offered to cut open arm. “Sure” I said, half-joking, “When”? “Right now” he responded. “ummmm, ok”.

Normal Adidas Shoe box full of surgery utensils

We got on our bikes and I cycled with him to his apartment in downtown Riga. He took me to his room and pulled out two shoe boxes full of IV’s, scalpels, and other medical supplies. “Shit, this is really going to happen”!! He put on some Depeche Mode, prepared a spot for me to lie down, and got his instruments ready. I lay face down on some blankets, and twisted my right arm up so he could easily access the infection.

Just after the procedure

After about 20 minutes, he told me that there was “not much pus, just blood”, then he cut in a bit deeper, and all the “fat and ooze” started to pour out. He only had trial bottles of anesthetic so he was constantly injecting me with trail dose after dose. In about an hour, I was all stitched up, and ready to cycle back to the dinner party. He gave me antibiotics, a shot of pain killer and we rode back to the party just after midnight.

Arrived just in time for a plate of homemade croissant's

Arrived just in time for a late night plate of homemade croissant’s

I have been resting since the surgery and have spent the last few days camping on the beach, tuning up bicycles, and enjoying Latvian hospitality. If it weren’t for the brutal winter I would really enjoy living in this city! Today I will have my stitches removed and by tomorrow I will be ready to continue my trip.

Fresh beans and cauliflower ready to be cooked on the Whiperlite, Latvians have a strange taste for the “fireball”

If only camping alone were this much fun

We had the whole beach to ourselves

Good night friends, Will write again from Lithuania!

: Cross training :

Estonia and the Baltic countries

Posted on September 3, 2013 by bodhitree

Route: Helsinki to Tallinn (ferry)
Tallinn-Parnu (current location)

Gaby with new prayer flag decorations courtesy a new Buddhist amiga

An all vegan, raw Sunday brunch in the rain. Where is the microwave and the hot sauce?

Butterflies in my stomach, about 10 km from Estonia

The old city, Tallinn

Helsinki was my least favorite city in Scandinavia. The city is very industrial and had a large coal island just outside of the city center. There are also many railroad connections made in the center of the city, splitting it in two with long stretches of railroad ties. On Monday I took the ferry to Tallinn Estonia and spent the day wandering the old medieval city. During the 14th and 15th century Tallinn had the tallest building in the world. Cobble stone streets, archways ancient churches are scattered about the old city. I practiced Chinese with some of the many visitors and drank some local beer while wait out a storm under the eve of an 13th century church.

View from the old tallest building on earth

Tallinn

Today I cycled to Parnu. The countryside is littered with old soviet military buildings. It was only in the early 90’s that Estonia gained independence from the USSR, and one can still feel its influence in culture and language. Good bye English and atm/debit card convenience. A lady this morning bought my groceries because she felt bad! Drinking is a major past time here, with most gas stations having full bars! The three Baltic countries, Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania are relatively and I expect to be in Poland in the next ten days.

Stockholm, the Finnish Archipelago and a Helsinki film festival

Posted on August 31, 2013 by bodhitree

Route: Eskilstuna to Stockholm
Stockholm to Aland (ferry)
Aland to Korpo (ferry)
Korpo to Helsinki
Current location: Helsinki, Finland baby!

The legendary Vasa, Stockholm Sweden

I spent 4 days in the beautiful city of Stockholm. The city is broken up into several different islands, and each have their own feel. After staying with Jarrett and Maya in Eskilstuna Maya invited me to stay with her family in the Bohemian district on Sodermalm island. After a late departure I arrived after 10 pm on Thursday evening. What a hip city! Oslo had all the Ralph Lauren types, Stockholm has the Chanel and Vogue. I avoided the busy roads and crossed paths with a motorbike tourist from Australia. We exchanged stories and I got the feeling that riding a motorcycle can be a lot more isolated than bicycle travel. He rode from Oslo to Stockholm in one day, a feat that took me almost a week to accomplish. The Australian had everything from a few GPS units to a local cellphone, so much gear that he was in a bubble and could no longer interact with those around him.
I took the elevator to the 3rd floor and met my hosts for the next few days. What family! I quickly felt right at home and was treated like a close relative. Maria and Martin have two kids Mira and Mons and it was great spending time with all of them!

My Swedish family, from left, Mira, Petra, Martin, Nia, Mons, Maria and Johanes

In Stockholm I went to the epic Vasa museum and saw the legendary Swedish warship and all its glory. The Vasa ship was the Swedish flagship built to capture the envy of the world. The ship however was poorly designed due to have two floors of cannons, and sank after a few km on its maiden voyage. It took Sweden over 300 years to salvage the remains, and another 50 years to preserve and put together the pieces. Now more than 95% of the original ship can be viewed at the museum. What a sight, 5 floors of information and a basement with the remains of those who drowned in the disaster. I stayed in the museum until is closed, and cycled to the shore just south of the museum, the actual sight of the sinking.

After being salvaged the ship was preserved by being sprayed with poly ethylene glycol for 17 years!!

From there I wandered the small island of Steppholmen, and admired the view of Parliament building across the harbor. Each island is so small that the whole city is easy accessible by bicycle. Just across the harbor lies Gamla Stan, the old town, which has cobble stone streets and ancient churches. One could easily spend a few days wandering the streets and sipping local beers. I retired for the evening after taking the elevator to the 27th floor of the Hissen building. The Skybar, has a beautiful view of the city and has an epic balcony overlooking the harbor. 15 dollar beers and 20 something cocktails, almost everyone present was texting, this must be an exciting place to hangout! I decided to skip the vibe and return to the streets where I could find a large variety of 2% beers*. (The strongest beers available in a supermarket)

Quaint nook on Gamla Stan

Nordic Museum, once you admire the building there is no need to see the exhibit.

The next day I stumbled upon a birthday party on the neighboring island of Langholmen. I pedaled to the top of a small hill and was greeted by some beautiful Swedes. It was a 25th birthday party and I was invited to live music (they had carried a generator, two huge speakers and a turntable), refreshments (lots of champagne, and boxed wine) and swimming in the Stockholm harbor. I swam with topless girls and watched the sunset over the city, drank champagne and talked about fashion with a few up and coming designers. I partied with my new friends for close to 6 hours, and stumbled home in the dark hours of the evening. What a night! There is no reason to every feel shy or lonely in a city like this. I was to catch the ferry to Aland the next morning at 7 am, but decided to stay another da and to see the infamous death spot recommended by my sister.

Sunset captured while swimming off of Langholmen

Skogskyrkogarden, I almost cycled here in the late evening after the party

On Sunday I cycled to Skogskyrkogarden, the historic city cemetery, which is on the Unesco world heritage list. A few world-famous architects in the early 1900’s got together and designed a gingerbread house for tombstones. The place was extremely creepy, thick forests growing around ancient graves, and long dark roads leading to forgotten burial sites. I pedaled around trying to get a feel for the place and decided to leave, but not before getting lost in the Muslin section of the cemetery. I slowly observed the dates on the tombstones go from past to present and watched relatives tend to new offerings. From the cemetery I cycled to the city hall, the official venue for the Nobel Prize(s). The building itself has a beautiful tower with three crowns, the official symbol of Sweden. I spent the rest of the afternoon with my friend Mons. We walked to his favorite places in the city and we drank a few beers at a park bench in the harbor. He introduced me to “snooze” the Scandinavian alternative to tobacco and after a few minutes my head was spinning.

Stockholm city hall

Downtown Stockholm, early morning

Pack up and say goodbye! I cycled out of Stockholm in the early morning and almost missed the ferry to Aland (the main island in the Finnish archipelago). After 3 hours of sleep, I found a vacant corner on the ferry and closed my eyes for a few hours. I awoke to the Finnish archipelago, close to 18,000 islands located between Sweden and Finland, what a sight! I recommend everyone to visit an archipelago sometime in their life, it is such an interesting experience to be surrounded by islands.

Finnish archipelago

Road between islands

Once in Aland, there are ferries and bridges that connect to many of the surrounding lands. After departing the ferry I cycled south and pedaled from island to island. Each land has its own unique character, with some having sandy beaches, and others just rocks. It’s very fascinating to look into the horizon and see hundreds of small islands. It’s almost like a creator ate a sandwich and sneezed, leaving specks of land everywhere.

Rob and Ulsa

That small spec is our destination

Map of the neighboring islands

I stayed with some friends Rob and Ulsa. They welcomed me with open arms and we went kayaking. Seeing the archipelago from land is very different compared to exploring them from a Kayak. We launched from the main island and paddled for a few hours to a remote beach. There we picnicked and swam, and drinking German beer and eating dumpstered bananas and pineapple. Kayaking the open waters was extremely rough compared to the sheltered coves near the islands. On the return Rob raised his sail and we floated effortlessly across the seas to our landing.

Ulsa riding the wooden Kayak

One example of a small island

Aland harbor is home to many old boats

Rob reminded me a lot of my friends from the Santa Cruz trailer park. He is extremely fond of dumpster diving, and lives in a converted school bus from Canada. A very interesting couple, I thoroughly enjoyed spending a few days with them.
The next day I took the ferry to eastern island Korpo. From there my plan was to cycle the Finnish archipelago all the way to Helsinki. While on the ferry I met a businessman turned adventurer named Kaj. We talked for a few hours about man powered excursions and he was truly interested in my journey. When the ferry landed in Korpo he invited me to stay at his summer-house in Nagu, 17 km away. We road together in the evening fog (translated as elves dancing) and he told me about the history of the islands. Kaj is so dedicated to human powered travel that he was pulling his kayak behind a tandem bike! I spent the rest of the evening sipping beers and lounging in his sauna, we became good friends.

Kaj’s legendary 3 kayaks!

After riding through the archipelago, the ride to Helsinki was long and uneventful. There are not many fins that can speak English, so getting directions can be a major hassle. I arrived in Helsinki on Friday just in time to pick up my replacement rear bicycle rack. I have been trying to get this rack since New Orleans, and after missing two connections in the states I have finally got it! Special thanks to Jon Blumehagen, you are awesome my friend!

Last sunset on the Archipelago

Last night at 9 pm I went with my friend Anton to the Helsinki cycling film festival. I was interesting, not quite the audience that the festival would bring in Los Angeles but nonetheless worth the ticket. Most of the films were quirky stunts filmed with vintage cameras blasting an indie soundtrack. I had forgotten how dorky cyclists are! Most the crowd had some sort of hip facial hair, like handlebar mustaches (no pun intended) and sideburns. I can’t convince myself that I am part of this scene! The last film of the evening was an honest film about cycling in Kyrgyzstan, and I can’t wait to seeing the country first hand.
I will be in Helsinki for the next few days. My plans for Russia have changed! The visa processing time is roughly 3 weeks and the consulate can only guarantee a two-week visa!! So will be cycling directly south to Estonia, and will proceed through Latvia and Lithuania. Depending on my Schengen visa (90 days in a 180 day time frame) I may make a small detour to cycle the Alps in Austria, and hope to have enough time to do the Italian coast in December.

Sweden, Viking ships and Chet’s jalopy

Posted on August 22, 2013 by bodhitree

Gaby gets repaired

Route: Oslo-Bjorkelangen-Amotfors(Sweden)-Arvika
Edane-Kil-Karlstad-Vase-Krisineham-Degerfors
Svarta-Fjuesta-Orebro
Arboga-Askoping-Eskilstuna

Swedish countryside

Departing Oslo was a lot harder than expected. On a Friday evening, in pouring rain I managed to cycle 15 km before my rear rack completely fell apart. I was riding Into a gas station to ask for directions when I heard a loud snap, after turning around and seeing that my rear rack was now resting on my rear fender I almost cried in cold rain. It took me about 45 minutes to jerry rig a temporary fix with zip ties and bungee cords. Afterwards I road another 10 km and slept in the mud underneath a small tree. The rain was so bad I could not cook so resorted to cold beans and a can of Norwegian spam called “Snuring”.

One example of a classic American vehicle found on some country dirt roads

The next morning the sun was up and gave me the opportunity to wind dry my clothes as I pedaled closer and closer to Sweden. There is no official boarder, just a small change in vehicles, prices and language. I stopped into a grocery store and was shocked that I could afford a bottle of sparkling apple cider, it was then that I realized I was in Sweden. Cheap candy, lots of sugary drinks and smiling faces here we go. Another shock was the amount of vintage cars, 1950, 60s and 70s hot rods roaming the streets. I saw more classic automobiles in one day than at a hot rod show in America! Even Chet’s jalopy could be found rolling through the streets. The Norwegian fjords are gone and with them the mountains, the Swedish countryside is composed of rolling hills and open grassy fields. I arrived in Arvika, Sweden just after 3 pm to find a completely disserted city. Everyone had closed up shop at 2pm and I felt as if I were roaming the streets on Christmas morning. I had a host just outside the city and he invited me to a large Norwegian dinner party. Crawfish, scalloped potatoes, salad, cake and lots of beer. I must have eaten over 15 large crawfish and learned that the most flavorful part can be found near the brain! At this party I learned the Swedish tradition of singing drinking songs. They sang “row row row your boat” with alternate lyrics, (ex: drink drink drink a beer). After about 6 songs and 4 shots of homemade vodka I started an interesting conversation with my neighbor Pieter Adrian, a Viking ship builder and a world traveler. After eating cake and listening 100 year old record played on a wind up record player, I slept in a warm bed under a nice roof.

Downtown Orebro

The next morning it rained but my friend Pieter and Kristina offered to help me fix my bike, after a few attempts at welding the decided to fix the bike the “Viking way” using flexibility to establish the utmost strength. After fabricating a few straps out of aluminum gaby is now better than new and can continue to carry heavy loads.

The Orebro castle, I actually got to see the Swedish king and queen as they walked around the city

The Swedish road system is not made for bicycles, most of the new roads do not have bike lanes or even a shoulder to ride on. After several warnings from the locals I decided to find out how bad the conditions on the roads were for cyclists. The shoulder has been replaced with a steel rail and in many areas the road is just wide enough of a single car. With the main roads being too dangerous to ride I had to take various back roads often times leading me far off course.

My new friend Saga, thanks for letting me stay!

Orebro, is the home of my Scandinavian ancestors! In the mid 1850’s they boarded a ship to America and worked for several years as indentured servants. The city is beautiful, and has a castle surrounded by a moat in the town square, I met up with a new friend Saga and spent a great night out in town. She cooked me dinner and I learned a lot about Swedish politics.

Swedish Whiskey

After a few tastings we are pals!

On the road again, I said goodbye to my new friend and headed out of the city to Eskilstuna. My family met some Swedes while traveling in Morocco, and they have invited me to stay with them. Eskilstuna is about 120 km from Stockholm, and is home of the famous mountain climber Goran Kropp. While cycling the country roads I passed a distillery and decided to check it out. To my surprise they were it was their last day in business and they were quickly closing up shop and moving the business to Scotland. I got a official tour, and tried all 12 of their whiskeys! After two hours of great conversation and constant whiskey sipping I returned to the road and pedaled east to Eskilstuna. Jarrett and Maya were very happy to have me stay with them and they cooked me a hearty meal of beer and potatoes. Jarrett has spent extensive time in S. Korea and has peaked my interest! I am heading to Stockholm today and will stay in the city for a few days before boarding the ferry to the Finish Archipelago, Aland. My stomach is better and my strength has returned!

This morning, bedhead, Jarrett and Maya

Coming down with feverish cycling

Posted on August 16, 2013 by bodhitree

Route:
Haugaustol – Geilo – Tunhovd – Nesbyen – Fla – Honefoss – Oslo

Cycling down to Geilo, I felt like my tires were half deflated. Something didn’t feel quite right but I shrugged and continued on my trip towards Tunhovd. I passed a American, from Oakland riding a custom Rivendell frame, he was also on his way to Oslo but was connecting with a train in the next town. His set up, with custom hubs and wheels probably cost close to $5k. By the time I made it to Tunhovd, it began to rain again and I quickly looked for a roof to eat some lunch. After a few slices of bread, sugar and energy drink packets I continued on. Within about 20 minutes my stomach started teaching an advanced chemistry lab, and I felt like was going to explode. Keep pedaling, I told myself, the symptoms may continue to worsen and you may need to be close to a town. My temperature began to rise and I could feel the early symptoms of a GI sickness. It felt like I was towing a vehicle behind me, and each small hill took an enormous amount of energy to climb. I finally made it to the small town of Fla found a park bench and tried to keep things from spinning. Am I really sick? I thought? Maybe just cold? I pushed my bike across the street to McDonalds and decided to see. I ate a cheeseburger, and if it weren’t for the handicapped bathroom would have vomited all over the restaurant.

I guess even if you are not sick this could make you noxious

I found an open field about two blocks away and had an awful night of feverish dreams; and stomach pains. I awoke before the sun, and lay in a cloud of sickness till the sun came up. I ate a few aspirin, and packed up my gear for another day. It was 50 miles to the next town, and there I had a bed for the night.
Pedal, pedal pedal, puke, pedal, pedal, puke. ahhhh.
When I was a kid my mom would always say well being sick at home is just the same as being sick at school, maybe so but being sick on a 50 kg bike sucks!

Old brick buildings in Honefoss

Getting into Honefoss, I repeatedly searched for a warm dry spot to rest while I waited for my host to get off work. I finally found the movie theater fire escape, where I could sitindoors out of the rain.
My host welcomed me, and offered me some leftovers, I ate all I could but didn’t make it very far. After several trips to the bathroom, I asked him and his wife if I could stay another day and rest, not possible was the reply and I needed to leave by 7:30am the next morning. OK, I will just cycle to the woods and find rest again there.

The next morning I cycled into town and decided to wait for the library to open. I sat on a park bench and watched the river push debris into a small lake. Since leaving Haugaustol, I have notice several changes; more minority cultures, graffiti and overweight people. After 20 minutes of sitting in the park a lady approached me and asked me where I was from. We talked for a while and she invited me into her warm house for coffee, yeah! She lived in an old house overlooking the river. We hang for a few hours, and she told me that I reminded her of an old friend, I met her two sons and then she invited me to stay.

Heidi took me up a super steep climb to a marvelous view

I spent two days with Heidi, her sons Cas and Bru and her boyfriend Life. We went hiking to the top of a local mountain, where I viewed the tragic island of Utoeya (where a crazed Norwegian gunned down at least 70 people at a political party in 2011), we went canoeing, she cooked me reindeer and she even cycled with me to Oslo. You are awesome Heidi!

Perfect day for canoeing, I may have even gotten a tan

My fever is gone, but I am still having stomach problems. It seems every time I eat my stomach is filled with so much gas that I feel like I am going to puke. At night it is grumbling and painful for hours while I try to sleep. Lesson learned, I do not have the Norwegian genes to handle the local water from the steams and rivers.

My last night in Honefoss, Heidi took me to he boyfriends house where I sample the local liquors, Aquavit, means “water of life”

Heidi took me on the old forest road to Oslo, during WWII the Norwegians used this road to hide supplies and make attacks on German ships in the Oslo harbor. It is very interesting to ride through the forest and into the capital city.

The Oslo Opera house resembles a glacier floating in the bay

Oslo is a beautiful city full of Brad Pitt look a likes and Ralph Lauren models. The Nobel peace prize is awarded each year in the city hall, and overall the city has a very multicultural feel. Edvard Munch, the Norwegian artist, has many of his paintings here, and the new Opera house draws people from across the country.

I went to the Russian consulate today, Russia is possible! Will be in Sweden tonight,

Julian

Eidfjord, Haugastol,Rallarvegen, and Rallarvegen

Posted on August 10, 2013 by bodhitree

Route:
Lofthus to Haugastol (via Eidfjord)
Haugastol to Flam (Rallarvegen north)
Flam to Haugastol (Rallarvegen south)
Meters climbed in the last 72 hours: over 3,000

This popular vehicle is used by locals to transport supplies on the Rallarvegen railway

A full day of sunshine! I departed Lofthus, and felt the warm sun on my back. Now that the clouds have temporarily departed I can see the top of the mountains. I got to Eidfjord in a few hours, and ran into a few other cyclists at the visitor center. One cyclist, probably a Spaniard, rudely demanded where I was from then responded by saying that he was from the best country. Obviously it is not that good if you are cycling in Norway. I admired the turquoise blue harbor while preparing for the step climb. From Eidfjord there is a 5,000 feet accent to the top of mountain. Most of the time there was a bike path, but at one point the path was completely washed out leaving no option other than to ride through a 15 km tunnel! Once inside the tunnel I had about 45 minutes of pure fear. It was almost completely dark inside except for the headlights of passing vehicles, and if it weren’t for my headlight it would be almost completely dark. I thought of my friend Jacob Thompson who once passed out while a train he was hopping passed through a tunnel. These thoughts did not bring me much hope as I continued through the darkness and carbon monoxide.

Camping spot on first night of Rallarvegen

I made it to Haugastol (the official starting place of the Rallarvegen) by late evening. No food stores, no gas station, only an bike shop with hundreds of rental bikes prepped for the busy weekend. With 4 pieces of bread and some macaroni noodles I took the dirt road out of Haugastol and on to the Rallarvegen. 86 km of rocky dirt roads descending down 5,000 feet to a small fishing called Flam. Within the first 10 km I found a vacant hut and pitched my tent near a large lake.

Scenes from the Rallarvegen

I awoke to a cloudy sky and decided to go back to sleep, bad idea. When I awoke the second time it was pouring rain and a new hole in my tent started dripping water on to my warm dry sleeping bag. Shit! I quickly got everything together, and put all my soaked gear into my panniers. My first thought, due to the rain was to cycle half the Rallarvegen, and turn around at Finse. However after talking to some local diehard cyclists at the bike shop, I decided to ride all the way back down to sea level and see the beautiful city of Flam.

Scenes from the Rallarvegen, just pasted the town of Finse

Although the climb back up is one of the steepest grades in Norway the ride down was breath-taking. I am very proud to say that the Rallarvegen has made it to my top 3 most beautiful places cycled. (The other two places are Dempster Hwy, Yukon and Hana, Maui). Glaciers, water falls, mountain sheep, goats, and jagged mountains. The road from Finse to Flam was mostly downhill, passing lakes and streams, and small villages. At about 20 km from Flam the road has a very step switch back section that descends 800 meters in 3 km!

It’s all down hill from here

I arrived in Flam just in time for the rain to start again. I cycled through the small village a found a nice flat spot to pitch my tent near the water. Although chemistry is not the most interdisciplinary science, I have used my later education from construction to keep the leak in my tent from becoming too troublesome, this technique I call the “tent plunger”. It is standard procedure when pulling a toilet to drain the bowl than shove a rag inside to keep the water from pouring out. The tent plunge follows the same principle, shoving all my clothes into the corners of my tent to keep the water out. I have used half a roll of guerrilla tape, and it still leaks, using the tent plunger not a drop.

Stealth camping in Flam, you couldn’t pay for a spot this good!

Flam was full of tourists! Many wealthy Chinese, French and German leaving lots of extra food on their plates at meal time. I contemplated buying a train ticket (just to the top of the mtn) but the price including bicycle was over 350 kr (more than $50) for 20 km! I would ride the steepest hills if someone paid me $2.5 a km, so I rode back up. This was my second time climbing the mountain, in some areas the road was so steep and rocky that I had push. Up, up and up! The reception alone made the trip worth while, I must have posed for 3-4 pictures, as it is uncommon to ride the Rallarvegen in the other direction.

Goats block the road

That night I camped near the glacier at the top of the mountain and shivered in the late evening wind. All night I could hear the sound of the bells from the grazing sheep.

View this morning after unzipping my tent

I awoke to the warm sun, again! Shining through the tent, giving me the opportunity to dry out a few of my things. I cycled back into Haugastol and while writing this I met a very nice couple in the café. We talked for a few hours and they bought me pizza!! I am now heading back into Rallarvegen in the rain to check out an epic trail recommended by my new friends. I wish you all a good day!

New friends from a café in Haugastol, I hope we can connect again!

Fjords, Viking Ruins and Cloudy Skies

Posted on August 6, 2013 by bodhitree

Norwegian Apples, Norway has an official apple day Oct 17th

The sky was overcast and rain looked definite as I departed from Bergen. My bike felt especially heavy as I carried it up and down stairs trying to find the bike route out of town. After much talk with several cyclists I have decided to cycle the Rallarvegen route to the fjords in the city of Flam. The route was an early logging road used in the1930’s and is now too rough for automobile traffic. It is said to be one of the best cycling routes in Norway but to get there and to avoid the endless tunnels I have to take a bit of a detour. Instead of riding north, I will head south to the city of Os, where I head across the fjord on a ferry to Venjaneset. While on the ferry the rain starts and I can tell its going to be a long day, as I prepare to get soaked I contemplate my shoe options. Other than my funky sandals I have one pair of shoes and socks. Please comment on this but I feel that It is better to ride in sandals in the rain than get my shoes and socks wet. If these are dry I can put them on at the end of the day to warm me up when I cook, plus it could take me days to dry the shoes. It is not the coldest rain but downhill riding can be pretty cold. From Venjaneset the road hugged the fjord, and I passed waterfall after waterfall heading north. In the small town of Eikelandsosen I head inland and climbed to the top of a step pass. “Be happy even though the body is not” I keep telling myself, and look forward to a nice warm sleeping bag.

It is totally pouring!! My front panniers are a great wind block for my wet feet and my fenders which were a joke to south westerners are doing a great job at keeping the road spray off my legs. By this time the rain has mixed with fog and visibility has become so bad that I struggle to see the turns in the road. I pull of the road at a gas station and ask directions to Torvikbygd. “You must really like cycling” a motorcycle couple asks me outside, “not today” I respond, “well at least you can warm up on the step hill’s”. They ride off, I think to myself how they will probably reach my destination in 20 or 30 minutes.

Loftus, view from my room

I warm up in the ferry waiting room and observe a family feasting on hot dogs, mother can’t finish hers and throws away more than half of a juicy frank. The steam continues to rise from the garbage. The ferry is designed for automobiles, and does not offer shelter from the storm, I wait in the restroom for the sounds of the engine to stop. I depart the ferry in Jondal, (one of the best fishing spots in western Norway). Utne is about 35 km north and is the only name that I have been able to pronounce correctly). This is fruit country. Outside of each town is a small kiosk where fruit is being sold, and I see raspberries, cherries and currants. I pass a house with two people sitting outside smoking, and decide to try the Julian charm. ” Do you know if there is a spot nearby where I can camp under a roof and be dry for the evening”? Response “I have a house nearby and you can camp there”, “just cycle over that hill and I will meet you”.

My first Norwegian friends

About an hour later I am lounging inside a warm house, smoking a home rolled Norwegian cigarette and frying up a whale steak. Whale is so good! I actually filled up on it! Lars, my host gave me over a pound of meat to cook! He introduces me to his girlfriend Monica and her brother and we stay up till 3am and become good friends.

SANYO DIGITAL CAMERA I wake up in a daze and pack for the road, I am introduced to brown cheese which is very similar to caramel but creamier. Lars tells me of some epic Viking ruins and my day is planned. Sad to say goodbye, I have stayed with so many people on the road but I really felt connected with Lars and Monica, there is something more than just coincidence here.

I cycle up hill to Utne and marvel at the beautiful, historic hotel built in 1722. Just outside of Lars’ hometown, Grimo there is a dirt road that leads up the mountain to an ancient Viking site. It is so steep that I have to push gaby in the mud. The rain just doesn’t stop and I befriend a farmer working on his tractor on the way back to town. It is already 5pm by the time I take the ferry from Utne to Kinsarvik. On the ferry I run into the farmer again. He asks me where I am headed and I tell him hopefully to a dry place. He invites me to his house and offers me room to sleep. He lives in the town of Loftus, and has many acres of Morello Cherries.

Many houses here are built with stone roofs

Bergen, Norway

Posted on August 2, 2013 by bodhitree

Bergen harbor

After three layovers and a close call in Frankfurt I arrived in Bergen, Norway. I unpacked my bicycle and rode out of the airport into a new world. Almost like coming out of the womb, I cycled the foreign roads to the city center. The time here is 6 hours ahead of the east coast and although I was able to sleep on the plane I was a bit distraught with finding my way about.

Downtown city center

Bergen, is surrounded by seven hills and seven fjords, and was the original capital of Norway. With a temperate climate and a large harbor the city drew sea vessels from all over the east. The city still has a lot of historic sites and many of the earlier architecture is still inhabited.

Lake on top of Mt. Floyen

The city is a cross between Victoria, BC and Anchorage, AK. Being this far north the sun doesn’t set till after 11pm and cruise ships from all over the world still come to the harbor for a night in town.

View from mountain tourist hub

I spent my first full day walking the streets and cycling to the top of Mt Floyen. I marveled at the old wooden houses along the harbor, and walked the cobble stone streets in the downtown area. It is very easy to get around, many people speak English and are very friendly. However the road signs are extremely confusing, each street name is at least 11 letters long it will take sometime before I can pronounce many of the Norwegian vowels. Prices are extremely high and I will be surviving on a kg of pasta and a large loaf of bread for the next few days. Alcohol is ridiculously over priced, the cheapest bottle of wine is close to 120 krone (20 dollars) and a beer in a bar is no less than 60 krone.

Regardless the city is beautiful and the weather is a great change from the hot and humid south. Tomorrow I am heading to the Fjords north of the city, via a dirt trail that passes two mountains and a few glaciers. I am slowly making my way to Oslo and should be in Sweden by late next week. Scandinavia here I come!

Great single track on back roads of town!

Last night in America

Posted on July 29, 2013 by bodhitree

Farewell party in Tallahassee

It is my last evening in America, and I am in downtown Orlando. The rain is falling quietly and can be heard on the streets as cars pass by. I am on the 4th floor of a large apartment building, across street is the legendary Amway center. Pedaling through town on a Sunday night, I was quick to notice the road changing from asphalt to brick, small restaurants and bars giving way to high rises and night clubs.

Last American Sunset, lake Underhill, Orlando, FL

Tomorrow, July 30th I depart for Bergen, Norway at 12:45pm est. I have spent the day getting supplies from the local thrift stores and Army surplus store. Warmer clothes are going to be essential as I head through Sweden, Finland and Russia in the coming fall. I picked up a pair of shoes and plan to toss out my beloved rainbow sandals once the temperature drops. It’s going to take me at least 32 hours to get Norway. My flight has three layovers and the shortest one is 2 hours. Cheapest ticket. My bike is all packed up in a cardboard box with all my tools, tent, and cooking equipment. I had to invest in scotch tape in that the box will be loaded and unloaded 8 times before I reach my final destination! I really hope everything arrives in one piece. Accommodations in Bergen have not be solidified, but I hope to spend at least three days there resting and seeing the city.

My Chinese brutha! Graduate student at Florida State University Tallahassee

On Sunday I went to a missionary Baptist church about 7 miles from Orlando. This is a Gospel church, where 95% of its members are African-American. While locking my bike outside I could hear the sound of the pastor preaching to the members and the walls shaking in response to his prose. There is much emotion in this church, many members speak up doing verse, and there is almost no direct reading from the bible. Instead the pastor mentions a verse and explores the theme with personal views and life experiences. He begins with a soft voice which grows to shout. It is almost as if he is exorcising spirits out of the crowd. Toward the end of the sermon he begins to “hoop”. Singing prose followed by an accompaniment of organ, drums and bass. Soon the whole band gets involved and the sermons turns into an accompanied song.

This set of tires made it through my Alaska trip and all the way to Florida.

I have thoroughly enjoyed my travels through the southern states of America, and thank you all for your moral and physical support. Next post will be from Bergen, Norway!

Orlando shopping mall flash flood, when the rain stopped some cars had all four tires submerged.

Ft Walton Beach, Florida

Posted on July 26, 2013 by bodhitree

Sunset in Fort Walden Beach Florida

It was at least a 100 mile ride from the western end of Dauphin island to Ft Walden beach. Departing the island a storm slowly brewed, and I was lucky to catch the last ferry out. I arrived in Ft Walden Beach, Florida late in the evening and was lucky to escape riding in the dark. I stayed with a new friend Dane, who could play Leonardo De Capprio’s double in “Blood Diamond”. With a southern accent and attitude, he made me a pan fried mango pizza and let me crash on his couch. I ended up spending the next day with him and we traveled to the Econfina springs north east of the beach. The bottled water company “Aquafina” bottles their water at one of the springs, and there are at least 20 different springs scattered across a 20 square miles of forest. The water was turquoise blue and crystal clear. Each spring had a deep crater where the spring flows keeping the temperature at a cool 60 degrees. I can’t image why anyone would want to be out at the beach with these springs being so close, however it was nice to have several springs just to ourselves.

We spent the late afternoon playing ukulele and harmonic on the docks of the city. When the sun goes down everyone goes out, and all the city lights turn on. I spent hours on the docks watching the city and enjoying my time on the water.